The Alta Via #4 in 5 Days

Day 1: San Candido, Italy to Rifugio Locatelli

My adventure started by waking up early and catching the 7:31 AM bus from Dobbaico to San Candido where the start of the AV4 awaited me. I stayed in Dobbaico the previous night, a quaint and beautiful village carved into the outskirts of the Dolomites. Out of all the places I have stayed before and after a trek, Dobbaico rises to the top of the list. I could retire here and be very happy. A quick bus ride to the Bivio Val Campo di Dentro stop, and my journey would start. I walked along the road until I got to the Alte Sage restaurant. This is where the Alta Via N.4 officially starts. From here the path leads up and into the unknown.

It was an uneventful hike for a few hours. An old rocky road weaved its way up through the uneven landscape. This is where the anticipation starts to grow. What will I see next? What awaits me at the end of this day? Eventually I came to the first hut on the AV4 route, Rifugio Tre Scarperi (above left photo). I know people stay here, but for me it didn’t make much sense. We are still way too close to the start. Better to venture further. The path heads through a meadow where cows are grazing (above middle photo). Here, the first bells of the trip, a welcome sound to my ears. It is so distinctly Dolomites. I love it. From here the path bends slightly to the West and begins the first real ascent of the day. The further up I climbed, the more I was swallowed up by the vastness of these mountains. I thoroughly enjoyed this section. I was alone. I had only seen a couple of people so far. Three giant pillars sat perched up the horizon (Above right photo). They could have been a mile or 100 miles away. It was impossible to tell. Was I headed towards them? I continued on eager to find out.

When I finally topped the horizon, I was greeted by my destination hut; Rifugio Locatelli (Above left photo). To the West sat the pillars, only slightly larger than they were before. I wasn’t headed towards those after all. I was told that Rifugio Locatelli is one of the busiest huts in the Dolomites. Of that I have no doubt. Its home was a picturesque plateau with a 360 view of Dolomite wonder. The back yard was a set of pristine lakes, the very definition of serenity (Above middle photo). People sat around on the hills surrounding the lakes, taking in the scene. The front of the hut displayed a large outdoor eating area. It was filled with hungry hikers eating a late lunch and enjoying a beer or two. Beyond the tables was an expanse of flat rocks that overlooked the surrounding area (Above right photo). People congregated on these rocks to take in the views. This is why love these mountains. This is why I love the Alta Via experience. This was everything to me.

I was not done for the day. Part of the AV4 adventure was the Via Ferrata options. Today I had the choice between two that were close to the hut. I chose to tackle Via Ferrata Torre di Toblin. The via ferrata was rated a 3B, which basically meant I was probably in over my head. I dropped my pack at the hut, grabbed my gear and my day bag and headed up to the start of the Via Ferrata Torre di Toblin. The peak I was climbing was very close to the hut and it took me less than 20 minutes to get to the start (Above photo). As I was putting my gear on a young couple walked up behind me. They had look of uncertainty on their faces. I knew that look because I had it. I asked them if this was their first time. They said “Yes.” I said, “Me too.” That seemed to make them feel better. Unfortunately, it didn’t do a lot for me. I was the one going first. I turned around, clipped my carabiners to the iron cable, took a deep breath and started my first via ferrata. To say this was a new experience for me was a vast understatement. I didn’t “practice,” how could I? I had been on ladders and used the cables before on my treks in Italy, but never for a sustained period of time and never with a degree of difficulty I was about to encounter.

A set of ladders aimed straight up and out of sight. This was going to be an interesting couple of hours. I thoroughly enjoyed the variety of climbing up this via ferrata. Mostly ladders and free climbing, it created the feeling of walking on the edge of a cliff the entire way up. It was surreal. I remember looking down and seeing ladders that I had just climbed up. They always seemed to be in impossible places where ladders shouldn’t be. I tried not to think about it too much. I didn’t want to freeze up and suddenly realize I shouldn’t be here. I just kept going. One step after another. I tried to remain intensely focused on clipping in each carabiner so I didn’t fall out of the sky. Focus. It was more mentally exhausting than physical. I remember looking up and seeing another climber perched on the side of the cliff (top right photo). I did a double take. That’s where I was going? It didn’t seem plausible. It didn’t really matter what it seemed to be, because it was. I had no choice but to continue to trek on. The range of emotions running through me must have thrown off my cognitive abilities because the memory is a bit of a blur. Adrenaline. I remember the adrenaline. That must be the force that drove me forward. It was all so surreal.

When I finally got to the top, It didn’t matter that I didn’t remember how I got there. The view stopped my heart. I felt like I was in an imaginary place. A stunning 360-degree vista swallowed me whole. I felt like I was frozen in time. I could barely move. Perhaps it was the insane drop off on each side of the peak that froze me in fear. Or perhaps it was the sensory overload that shorted my circuits.

The two lakes that I had seen at the hut now looked impossibly distant and impossibly blue. I took a few minutes and tried to focus on the moment. I was standing in one of the most amazing spots I have ever been in my life. When you consider the view and what it took to get here, it was a place and time that I will never forget. It’s so hard to contemplate that in the moment. It is these moments that I live for on my treks. To me, that one moment was worth the entire trip. It was worth 100 trips. Unfortunately, what happened next was a moment that is hard to forget, but for all the wrong reasons.

As I went to put my phone in my pocket after taking a few pictures, I missed my pocket and I watched in horror as my phone bounced once, twice and over the cliff to my left (Above photo). It bounced again and disappeared. I tried to reject the reality of what just happened. I tried to rewind time. It didn’t work. My phone was gone. It just fell off a cliff that must be at least 200 FT high. My GPS, gone. My ability to contact my family, gone. My pictures, gone. I was devastated. I was worse than devastated. I was completely demoralized. After reaching the highest of highs, I broke the algorithm and shot right off the bottom of the chart. This was not a low point. This was the Mariana Trench of low points.

When I got back to the hut I sat on a bench and contemplated my situation. I had no real solution to my problem. I had maps, but I had read in my guide that GPS was a necessity. I needed to contact my family or they would worry for the next 5 days. I went to my room to further contemplate my dire situation. While on route I heard some people speaking English. I reacted quickly, “Excuse me, are you American” I asked a middle-aged gentleman. “I’m Canadian, why do you ask,” He responded.

I went on to tell him what happened. He knew exactly where my phone fell and knew exactly what I knew, which was that the phone was gone forever and I was completely and utterly screwed. I asked him if I could send a text to let my family know what happened. He didn’t have service, but I sent it anyway so that when he got service, the text would go through. Canadian folks are nice. Very nice.

Before dinner I wandered around outside. I still had my GoPro camera so I could at least take some pictures. It was approaching dusk and that affected the light in amazing ways (Above photos). The landscape changed. The crowds were gone. I had the scenery to myself. I sat down on the side of the hill overlooking the lakes. There was a light drizzle, but that only seemed to enhance the experience. I stayed here for what seemed like 5 minutes but was more likely 30. Time behaved strangely here. Despite what had happened to my phone I couldn’t help but feel content in the moment.

I was getting hungry, so I went back to the hut in anticipation of a good meal to lift my spirits. It was during this time that I met Gareth, the Austrian Brit. Born in England, but now living in Austria, Gareth was a bit of a talker. I told him about the story of me losing my phone. He offered to send a text for me as well. People were helpful out here. There is definitely a sense of camaraderie amongst like-minded hikers. A few others jumped into the conversation. An Irish guy and his Indian friend were here for 2 days doing some Via Ferrata hiking. It was their first time here. Both had already fallen in love with the Dolomites. That was a common theme amongst all the people I met. They all fell in love with the Dolomite experience. People started funneling into the dining room. Excellent, it was time for dinner.

At dinner I sat with my head in my hands. I couldn’t shake the loss of my phone. I felt defeated. I didn’t talk to any of the nice people at the table. The first course was a dumpling soup. I ate it quietly and ran through the possibilities for what to do next. I decided I would go on, but it would not be easy and it may not be safe. I would have zero margin for error for the next 4 days. It would be tough but I would go on.

While the second course was served; porkchop, potatoes and veggies, one of the workers from the hut walked to the table and asked: “Is there a Michael Maesano at this table?” I said yes and she handed me a black plastic bag with something inside. My mind raced. Someone found my phone? If so, it was probably in a million pieces? Inside the bag was a phone, fully intact with barely a scratch on it. My immediate thought was that this was not my phone. How could it be? It was not feasible. This must be a cruel joke. Is this Italian humor? But it was my phone. I couldn’t believe it. Oddly, the case was missing, but it was definitely my phone. They knew it was mine due to the medical tag option on the iPhone. If you click the top left and right button and swipe “Medical ID” it has my name and info. Someone found my phone.

My mood at the table completely changed and the people at the table noticed. They started asking questions. I told them the story. They were every bit as astonished as I was. It was a miracle. There is no other possible explanation. They suggested I write a good review for the phone case and we all laughed. I was so elated with this turn of events; I don’t even remember what I ate for dessert. I had gone from the Mariana Trench to the Moon. I went to bed happy and eager for the next day.

Day 2: Rifugio Locatelli to Rifugio Fondo Savio

Trekking in the Dolomites is all about going up and then going down. Over and over again. If you like your knees, you may not like hiking in the Dolomites. I embrace the challenge. It was a beautiful morning and after breakfast I started my descent. I really enjoyed the hiking on Day 2. It was quiet and beautiful. There was plenty of variety in the landscape to make the time go by fast. I reached Rifugio Auronzo late morning.

Rif Auronzo looked like an amazing hut, but it had a huge parking lot. This made the hut more accessible and it was therefore, busier than the average hut. When you add in the landscape where it was built, it was pretty easy to see why it was so popular. Today, the lot was filled to the brim with cars. The outside eating area was humming with excitement. Droves of people were sitting at tables eating, drinking, and taking in the scenery. I try to avoid the crowds so I walked right past this scene without hesitation. I still had plenty of water and snacks to make it to the next hut before eating lunch.

The next section of the trek was isolated and challenging. It was also very green. These sections were always some of the most beautiful. The contrast of the lush green against the stark mountain grey was something I have grown quite fond of. A short ascent took me to a plateau with a view. I could see the path wind its way down, around and over a distant ridge. I encountered some short sections of via ferrata, but nothing that warranted taking the time to put the gear on. I spent the next hour meandering from path to path and pass to pass.

I still had adrenaline from finding my phone coursing through my veins. That seemed to carry me through most of the day. I wasn’t even phased when the route started its final long ascent up to my destination hut, Rifugio Fonda Savio (Above right photo). Like day 1, my adventure was just beginning. A 30-minute hike from the hut was Via Ferrata Merlone, which was a 3-hour Via Ferrata route.

I had a quick lunch, ditched my bag and started my trek to the start of the via ferrata. The path seemed to be straight up. As I went further and further the hut got smaller and smaller behind me (Above left photo). It was comforting to see the hut as I continued on. It was a beacon of safety in case something went wrong. When I finally got to the start of the via ferrata I looked up.

My heart sank. It was difficult to comprehend what I was looking at. Before me stood what seemed like a hundred ladders stacked on top of each other for as far as the eye could see. In later days people would tell me that they preferred the ladders and that they thought they made the climb easier. I couldn’t disagree more. They were awkward and I couldn’t help but feel like they were not installed correctly. I am not saying that’s rational, but that’s the way I felt. At least when your climbing rock, you know that the rock is supposed to be there. The ladders were unnatural. I didn’t feel comfortable on them. In retrospect this was likely me feeling like I wasn’t in control. I didn’t trust the ladders. It made for a very uncomfortable 2-hour hike.

After 30 minutes I passed an Italian couple (Above photo). The man clearly saw something in my eyes and he told me in a very calm and nice way, “You will find stairs (ladders) all the way up.” I said thank you and continued on. Clearly, he thought I was in over my head. He wasn’t wrong.

I powered on and straight up the side of a cliff for what seemed like an eternity. As I got higher and higher the view became more and more surreal. There in the distance was the hut, now a tiny dot on the horizon. This was wild. This was like nothing I have ever done before. I talked to myself the whole way up. Both out loud and internally. I questioned myself. Should I be doing this? Should I turn around?

In the end, my stubbornness won out and I continued on. I felt uneasy the whole way up. I was stiff and there was no rhythm to my movements. It was painstaking. The discomfort was palpable. Instead of worrying about getting to the top, I spent my time wondering how the F am I going to get down. I was fighting the reality of the situation. If I went up, I had to go down, right? I didn’t want to go down so why was I continuing to go up? I don’t know why this via ferrata got to me while the day 1 via ferrata didn’t. Later in the trip when I spoke to others, many told me they thought that Via Ferrata di Toblin was harder for them than Merlone! I was shocked. I did not agree!

When I finally got to the top, I felt both relieved and scared. Relieved that the hike up was over and scared that the hike down hadn’t begun yet. In a battle between my body and my mind, my mind finally won out. I sat at the peak and thought it all through. I could do this. It was at this time and place that I became present in the moment and took in the view for the first time. It was like nothing I have ever seen before. It felt like I was in a place I shouldn’t be. Perhaps that was the truth of it. Words can’t describe the scene I witnessed. How many people had sat where I sat now? This was a truly special place. The combination of awe and fear is a recipe that I will soon not forget. It was time for me to head down. There was no sense in delaying the inevitable, so down I went.

When I got to the base of the via ferrata a sense of relief washed over me. In reality the way down was way easier than the way up, but the experience of my 3-hour journey had an impact on me. What that impact was I am still not sure. It certainly changed me. If I could conquer that, I could concur anything. When I got back to the hut, I had a renewed sense of myself. I was confident that I could overcome whatever challenges awaited me in the days ahead. I felt a sense of accomplishment and contentment. I went to bed early eager and ready for the next stage of my adventure.

Day 3: Rifugio Fonda Savio to Rifugio Vandelli

Day 3 of the AV4 is probably my least favorite day of hiking in the Dolomites. The first half of the day brings you over two passes with some via ferrata sections mixed in. These sections were enjoyable, but they were short lived. The hike changes after reaching the second pass, Forcella di Misurina. While you are greeted with the view of Misurina Lake (above photo), so too are you greeted by the crowds. This is very popular area for day hiking. I soon hit Rifugio Col de Varda, which is a quaint hut accessible by chairlift. This hut was very busy when I arrived.

A mountain dog was tied to the back of the hut and he lied contently on the grass overlooking the lake on the horizon. A very lucky dog indeed. I got some lunch and water and continued on. The next few hours were forgettable. The wide road-like path was filled with day hikers on their way up to Rifugio Citta de Carpa. I followed along with the masses. The path, steep at times, continued to climb its way up into the alpine. Here, the AV4 path splits off the road to the west and heads toward the valley. If you continue up the path a ways, you reach Rifugio Citta de Carpa. I decided to hike up to the hut to see what it was all about. I shared the path with hundreds of day hikers intent on reaching the hut. This was the hottest day of the trek which only added to my negative mindset about trudging up the path. When I finally got to the hut I took some time to rest and take in the scenery. It was a beautiful area but in retrospect I wish I had just headed down to the valley. The amount of time, energy and patience (walking with so many people) needed was not worth the view.

I headed down and set off on the path down to the valley and the road. I knew I had to cross a main road before heading up to my final destination, Rifugio Vandelli. I didn’t take many photos on this trek down. It dragged on and on. Mile after mile of switch back dirt roads along with the heat started to get to me. I did not enjoy this section at all. The Alta Via is not all magical views and beautiful lakes. Sometimes you have to suffer a little to earn those vistas, so that’s what I did for what seemed like hours. I finally made it to the main road. Despite being tired, sweaty, and aggravated, I was relieved. The worst part was over.

I was completely out of gas and I knew I had a long hike up to Rifugio Vandelli. I also knew that next to Rifugio Vandelli was Lake Serapis, one of the most beautiful and famous lakes in the Dolomites. I tried to use that knowledge to motivate me to continue on. Before crossing the road I ran into Gareth. He was waiting for a bus and drinking an Austrian elderberry soda. I made a mental note to try that. We chatted for a few minutes. He wasn’t able to book a room at Vandelli, so he had to find a place elsewhere. In the AM he would continue his trek of the AV4.

I said goodbye, crossed the road, and started my trek up to Refugio Vandelli. It was a long and demanding hike up. Luckily the clouds came out which gave me a bit of respite from the sun. This was the first time on the AV4 that I felt lethargic and slow. I didn’t seem to be making progress as I climbed. The landscape changed slowly, almost as if I was moving in slow motion. I took short rests without even realizing it. After what seemed like hours the steepness of the hike started to wane and the trees opened up. There was another path off to my right and hordes of people were meandering down it. Both paths merged and suddenly I was in in a new place. A popular and crowded place.

I was at Lake Sorapiss. I walked down to the lake to see what the hoopla was about. It didn’t disappoint. The lake was an icy blue color that didn’t seem to be of this world. People were everywhere. This was a special place. I decided to leave the lake and head up to the hut, Rifugio Vandelli. It was a 5-minute walk. There was a nice outdoor area with a beautiful overlook. I sat down at a table and took it all in. I made it to the hut. It was a tough day, but I made it.

I checked in, got a snack and a beer and relaxed. There was talk of a solar powered shower. Sign me up! When they opened the shower, which had a limited amount of hot water, I was 5th in line. A drank a beer and chatted with the others in line. Here I met a French guy and the two Spanish girls he was hiking with. The girls were best friends. One of them was his girlfriend. We talked about the day and the AV4. Because there were limited huts on the AV4 (at least compared to the AV1 & AV2) I started to see the same people in the huts at night. We were all on this journey together. It created a sense of camaraderie. I couldn’t help but wonder how many of these people would actually make it. Day 3 was exhausting, but day 4 was supposedly the hardest day of the trek and Day 5 wasn’t much easier. The experience of a hot shower after 3 days of hiking was something made of legends. It was one of the highlights of Day 3 for sure. I felt refreshed and invigorated.

A couple hours went by and it looked as if some storm clouds were coming in. I headed back to the lake. At this time the hordes of people were gone. People headed back to their cars, trying to beat the storm. I found perch high up away from the lake where I could sit and take some pictures. This was the best part of the day. Peaceful. Serene. Beautiful beyond belief. These are the moments I cherish. This is the reason I go on these adventures. The exhaustion. The soreness. All of it is worth it because of these moments. This is a memory that will burn in my mind for decades. This was one of the most beautiful lakes on earth and I had it all to myself. The rain started to fall so I headed back to the hut. I organized my things and waited for dinner. Lightning, thunder and torrential downpour moved in and stayed for most of the night. I couldn’t help but think about the wet rocks on what was supposed to be the toughest Via Ferrata section I was to conquer in the morning.

Dinner was good, but not memorable. What was memorable was the discussion. People were talking about the via ferrata and the day to come. Day 4 is the toughest most demanding day on the AV4. At this point I had gotten to know most of the people doing the same trek. The French guys with the two Spanish girlfriends that I met in line for the shower. The four Dutch guys that were quiet and to themselves. The 4 American lawyers. The two older Dutch co-workers. I shared a room with them this night. Loud, boisterous, funny. I chatted with them before going to sleep. One was an experienced hiker, the other was along for the ride. Ex military, but no hiking experience. He was hurting and we hadn’t even hit Day 4, the most difficult day, yet. They were talking about Via Ferrata Vandelli. That was the big challenge to start Day 4. It was a 3 hour Via Ferrata that scaled and traversed a giant cliff overlooking the hut and Lake Sorapiss. I was excited but weary. I fell asleep quickly.

Day 4: Rifugio Vandelli to Rifugio San Marco

The quiet calm of dawn set the stage for what would be one of the most memorable hiking days of my life. I have developed a special affinity for hiking at dawn. There is something about the silence in the alpine that has a profound effect on me. Every sound amplified. Every sense enhanced. Anticipation becomes a tangible force that pushes you forward eager to experience what has yet to come. I was the 3rd person out of the hut. I meandered down to the lake where the trail would take me up and into the highlands. The English translation of Alta Via is “The High Route.” There could be no more fitting description for what my day 4 hike had in store for me.

I started the day feeling sluggish, but I barely realized it as I hiked out of the plateau leaving Lake Sorapiss behind. Soon I was surrounded by an unexplainable terrain that was filled with rock cropping’s and lush green fauna. An odd combination for sure, but it worked. It was yet another landscape type to be enjoyed in the Dolomites. In the distance I could see the trail zig zag its way up before converging with the face of a giant mountain (Above right photo). I could only imagine where the trail went after that. It was still a ways a way, but it made me wonder what I had gotten myself into on this Day 4 hike.

As I continued on the landscape changed again. This time I felt as if I was walking on the moon. It really is incredible how many different landscapes you encounter in the Dolomites. This was amongst my favorites. The icing on the cake was Lake Sorapiss, behind me, in the distance, getting smaller and smaller the further I ascended. The greenish hue of the lake seemed to blend with the moon-like landscape perfectly. I was in another world.

I had been following a couple the whole morning and even though I felt sluggish and slow I was catching up to them. I finally caught them at the start of the Via Ferrata Vandelli. This was the giant mountain I saw from below. It was about to begin. A 3 hour traverse up and along this giant rock face. A cliff really. I would be traversing a cliff for the next 3 hours. This was going to be an interesting day.

I felt comforted by the fact that two people were in front of me and countless people were behind me. At least I knew I was in the right place. I put on my harness and started what would be the most memorable via ferrata experience of the trip. As I started my ascent up the first set of ladders, I tried to comprehend what I was about to climb. The fact that there was some sort of path up and along this mountain wall was something out of a fairytale. It did not seem as if there should be a trail here, but there was.

I continued my way up trying to focus on each clip and unclip as I traversed along this enormous headwall. There were points where I had to use a lot of my strength to get up and over small sections of rock. Being securely fastened into my harness was only mildly comforting. To my right was a rock wall going up so high I couldn’t see the top. To my left was a sheer drop off that seemed to swallow up the surroundings like it was optical illusion. I should not be hiking here. This is not meant to be hiked.

As I continued up and across the sections of via ferrata counted down letting me know just how long of a day I had in front of me. 65. 64. 63. There were a few sections that didn’t have cables. I can vividly remember unhooking my clips and looking ahead 50 yards to the next section of cable. Only a narrow path lied between. I can only imagine what I looked like as I gingerly walked the path making sure to lean into the wall. My heart was in my throat, but the promise of safety and the cables kept me going. When I clipped in again, I took a breath and took in the scenery. Off to my left and down in the valley lie Lake Sorapiss. A small aqua dot on the horizon.

As I took stock of my situation, I heard the buzz of a helicopter. I tracked it to the other small dot on the horizon, Rifugio Vandelli, the hut I had left at dawn just a couple of hours ago. The helicopter had just dropped off supplies to the hut. As it gained altitude and turned toward the valley it became apparent just how high I was. The helicopter looked tiny as I stared down at it from above (Above photo). It was an impossibly far distance below me and it had just reached its peak altitude before heading back to civilization. I felt chills go down my body. If it weren’t for the couple in front of me, I would have felt completely alien and isolated. I was in a place that not many people (statistically) have been. It scared me, but it also gave me a jolt of adrenaline. I soon caught up to the boyfriend of the couple. I think he was the boyfriend. He was a good distance behind his girlfriend. He was moving slow. Too slow. He offered to let me go in front so I did. I was thoroughly enjoying this part of the hike. I soon passed the girlfriend. 35. 34. 33. The next hour flew by as the views became more and more absurd. 10.9.8.

I was nearing the top of the via ferrata. It had taken 3 hours but I made it. When I reached the peak, I sat down for what seemed like seconds, but was more likely minutes. How many minutes is hard to recall. Other hikers started to join me. Soon I shared the peak with about 5 other people including the Austrian Brit, Gareth. He had started from the road and had got an early start. He moved quick and he caught everyone that had left the hut when I did. We talked for a few minutes and decided we would hike the next section together.

At first, I was apprehensive about this “partnership.” I liked Gareth, but he was a bit of a blow hard. He had a strong opinion of himself and boy did he like to talk. However, it was rare to find someone with the same hiking mentality that I had, so I opted to give it a shot.

The next section was a descent down a narrow rocky path. This was a true test to see if we could hike together. I tend to take these sections pretty fast. I was surprised to learn that Gareth had the same approach so we made excellent time down this section. The whole time Gareth was telling me story after story about his life. After an hour I knew more about him then I did about my best friend. We had a long way to go. Thankfully I have the ability to tune people out but give the impression that I’m listening. A head nod here, a laugh there.

It worked great. Despite his long winded and blustering communication style, I did like Gareth and we had a lot in common. We continued on and our conversation did help to pass the time during this grueling section that was essentially a 3 to 4 hour traverse with some steep ascents mixed in for fun. The guide warned of this section. It stated that many people run out of water here, so pack extra. It’s one of the reasons this is the hardest day of the AV4.

We were about halfway across this traverse when we took a rare break. We found some shade and sat down. I watched as Gareth drank the last sip of his water. Did I mention we were only halfway? We had hours of trekking left to go and it was hot out. I actually listened to the guide so I had plenty of water. I shared some with Gareth. We continued on. Each ascent became more and more difficult as our bodies became more and more tired. We were really good hiking partners. None of us really stopped much to take a break, even on the ascents. We both took pictures when the scenery called for it. All and all it worked out great for both of us.

We could see a pass in the distance (Above left photo). We knew that the next hut was about 30 minutes past that pass, so we continued on eager to get to the hut and refuel. Rifugio San Marco was my destination so it was the end of the line for me. The end of the hardest day of the AV4, but for Gareth he had to go to the next hut because he didn’t book a room far enough in advance. He proceeded to tell me that going another 45 min to the next hut was not a problem for him. I loved his confidence.

We reached the pass and the path headed down a steep narrow path. In the distance we could see the hut. There it was, perched on a cliff with the village of San Vito di Cadore below it (Above middle picture). The sight was something to behold. I was so happy when we arrived. The hut was located on a large grassy plateau (below photos). There were a lot of day hikers lying in the sun and relaxing. What an amazing place. We completed the most difficult section of the AV4 in record time. The next group wouldn’t get there for 3 more hours. We sat down and had some lunch. Gareth continued to talk my ear off during lunch. I was ready for a nap. Gareth took off for the next hut and I lied on the grass awaiting the next groups to complete their day 4 treks.

The first group to make it to the hut was the French guy with the two Spanish girlfriends. They came in 3 hours after Gareth and I finished. We all sat on the grass and talked about the day 4 trek. They ran out of water at about the same place Gareth did. They ran into the 4 young Dutch guys and asked for water but they said no. I did a double take; “They said no?” I asked. They all laughed. They said they could see that they had more than enough water but still refused to share. We talked for about 30 minutes before the 4 Dutch friends came off the trail, nodded to us and walked into the hut. At this point it was about 5:30P M. Dinner is supposed to be at 7PM. This hut had an outdoor heated shower so I took the opportunity to take a hot shower. Again, a life changing experience. After I was done and back on the grass lying down, the first American of the group of 4 Americans lawyers came off the trail. It was about 6:30 PM now. I knew him pretty well at this point so I asked him where the rest of the crew was. He told me they were struggling. They also ran out of water. He couldn’t wait any longer, so he went on by himself. We talked for a while and awaited the rest of the group. Meanwhile some other hikers had come in from various other places. This hut was located in a place that was accessible by a lot of other treks. Some multi-day hikes, some 1-day hikes.

At about 7 PM the other 3 Americans came in. They didn’t look too happy. They were clearly exhausted. We were now only waiting on the older Dutch friends. One was an experienced hiker and the other wasn’t. While we waited, the American lawyers told everyone that they were done with the Alta Via 4. They quit. In the morning they would hike down to San Vito di Cadore and take a bus to the end. Day 4 had been too much and knowing that day 5 wasn’t much easier, they decided to call it quits. At about 7:30 PM the two Dutch friends made it. They too decided to quit. Dinner was delayed to 8 PM. After the hikers were changed and settled, the mood of the hut changed drastically. The 4 Americans and the 2 Dutch decided that since they were not going to hike day 5 they were going to have a good time. They started pounding beers and other alcohol. As you can imagine this was a recipe for disaster.

Dinner was delicious and I sat at a table with German couple and solo Swiss hiker. We all shared our itineraries. They were very nice people. The Swiss hiker was just bouncing around from hut to hut, not really following a multi-day hike. He was just trying to hit as many via ferrata routes as he could in the area. Overall, I really enjoyed this hut and I would definitely go back.

After dinner the drinking continued. I went to bed, exhausted. I woke up 3 times in the middle of the night. Each time from the sounds of someone throwing up. It wasn’t your normal average throwing up sound. It was the kind of throwing up sound you would imagine would happen if you were severely dehydrated and you spend 12 hours the day before hiking. It was not a pretty picture. I didn’t envy that person in the AM. There were going to be some very upset hikers and hut employees. I didn’t wait around to find out. I got up early. I had my last day to look forward to.

Day 5: Rifugio San Marco to Pieve di Cadore

The last day of a multi-day trek is always bittersweet. The realization and excitement that you are 1 day away from completing your goal is usually enough to power you through. Not today. I was up early and out of the hut at dawn. All I felt was exhaustion. Real exhaustion. The kind that settles into your bones and weighs you down. I didn’t put too much thought into the fact that this was my last day. The toll day 4 took on my body and mind was the only thought I had in my head as I gingerly made my way down the path. From the hut the path heads uphill for about 45 minutes. I felt like I was moving in slow motion.

The relatively easy ascent took me 1 HR. I tried to eat some food and drink some caffeine. It didn’t help. I meandered down to the next hut on the route, Rifugio Gallassi. This is where Gareth had stayed the night before. I took a few minutes at the hut to compose myself. Hikers were milling about eating breakfast and drinking coffee. I tried to reset myself. Start over. Change my disposition. All I felt was exhaustion. I knew that the rest of the days hike was going to be difficult. I tried come to grips with this. I knew I had a long uphill climb up to the Antalao Glacier. I knew there was a difficult via ferrata section somewhere on that climb. I had no other choice but to embrace the challenge. One step after another. I tried to keep it that simple. After a 10 minute rest, I decided to trek on. I would take it slow and hopefully my energy would come back.

After an hour the sun came out and my mood started to change for the better. It’s amazing what a little sun can do. Suddenly this steep uphill climb didn’t seem so bad. The terrain here was rocky. Very rocky. The path was hard to follow, so I had to pay close attention to the markings. Rocks and more rocks for as far as the eye could see. I tried to look ahead to see where the path was going, but that was impossible in the vast rocky landscape. The way the sun was hitting the rocks it all seemed to blend together in a haze. I had to back track a few times to get back on the path. Eventually I had to a cross a stream. It was pretty high levels of water. It was flowing pretty good. I had plenty of water, but I thought to myself, if there was ever water that is safe to drink, it’s probably this. Glacier water, moving fast. It had to be clean.

Another hour and I was at the top of a plateau overlooking the valley. I had come a long way. In front of me a giant mountain loomed rising up what seemed like 10,000 FT. That was the Antelao Glacier and that is where I was going. Here started my final long via ferrata section aptly name the “Via Ferrata of the Antelao Glacier.” This too had a rating of 3B. I could see 4 guys about halfway up this via ferrata. They looked like tiny dots moving across a huge mountain (below left picture).

This via ferrata section was unique from any of the others I had done on this trek. Instead of jagged rocks and ladders, I encountered a smooth, steep rock face. The iron cables were low to the ground which made the climbing awkward. It’s not easy to remain bent forward for long sections at a time. While the hike was not technically difficult or dangerous, it took a lot out of me. I can only imagine how much more difficult it would be if it were raining out. Thankfully, it wasn’t. I continued on at a slow pace. Very slow. I took my time and reminded myself that this was my last day. I was in no rush and I had plenty of daylight. I tried to once again focus on the moment. I could see the 4 hikers disappear over what must be the top of this climb. I tried to gauge how long it would take me to get there, but my mind didn’t feel like doing the calculations.

After an unknown amount of time, I reached the peak and in doing so entered yet another alien landscape. To my right was clearly the glacier. The unique shape of the mountainside funneling down into the valley was unmistakable. At the bottom was two tiny lakes. They couldn’t be real lakes. “Pools” was a better description (Above left photo). The water looked even more alien than the landscape. I took a few photos and started my descent. The remainder of my time on the AV4 would be sent descending down and back towards civilization. There was a sadness in that. A finality, like reading the last chapter of the book and knowing there were a finite number of pages left. How would the story end? What awaited me in this final chapter? Only one way to find out. The more I descended the more the landscape changed. From stark brown to bright green and every shade in between. I was exhausted. I encountered a group of Austrian Ibex (Above right photo). Their horns were distinct and unmistakable. There were about 10 of them. Some where standing around, some lying down. They didn’t seem to be too scared of people. They were pretty close to the path. Maybe 20 feet or so. It was difficult to take my eyes off of them as I walked by. The path was on a relatively steep decline with plenty of loose rocks. When your legs are tired, it’s easy to lose balance. This was particularly true when your focus was on these animals. I fell not once, but twice. I decided it was a good time to take a break. I sat on the path and ate an apple while the animals continued to ignore me. I was in their domain. These things could run up, down and along the sides of cliffs with an effortless grace. I was no threat to them.

I said goodbye to the Ibex and continued down the path, which fed into a lush valley and crossed a stream. Here I caught the 4 hikers (Above left photo). 4 Italians. I passed them, walked about 1 mile and took another break to eat some snacks and drink some water. I sat there for about 10 minutes. As I was about to continue the Italians passed me. They stopped to chat. They were hiking the AV5. I was curious about the AV5. I hadn’t been able to find any info on it. I know it was more remote, but that’s all I knew. I asked them if they had hiked the AV4. Two of them had. I asked which they liked better. They both said the AV5 because it was more challenging. More challenging. Wow. That is hard to imagine. I was intrigued. The AV4 and AV5 shared the same route from Rifugio San Marco to the end. I didn’t like the overlap, but that’s how it goes. Someday I would give it shot.

I followed behind the Italians for about 1 hour. The path descended another couple hundred meters before heading up again. It was a short, but strenuous ascent. I was out of gas, but that didn’t matter. My body still moved forward.

I was happy when I got to the top of the pass, a beautiful view awaited me (Above left photo). My eyes followed the path to the left. A long traverse lay before me. I don’t remember much about the traverse other than it was long and uneventful. Eventually, in the distance I could see the last hut on the AV4; Rifugio Antelao (top right photo). After that, it was a long hike down a road to my destination; the village of Pieve di Cadore.

When I arrived at Rifugio Antelao, my exhaustion was replaced by sadness. Maybe sadness isn’t the right word, but the realization that my Alta Via experience was coming to an end. The rest of the way promised to be anticlimactic at best, just a long winding road that led back to civilization. Usually on these treks I would also feel a sense of relief. For some reason, that feeling eluded me this time. The Antelao hut was located in a giant open space. A large outdoor area with picnic tables and people surrounded the hut. Packs and bikes littered the area. I was starving and thirsty so I headed into the hut to get lunch. As I was walking in I spotted Gareth sitting at a picnic table listening to his headphones. We made eye contact and at that moment I knew I would be hiking the last leg of the AV4 with him. We caught up while I ate a sandwich. He regaled me with his experience from when we parted at Rif San Marco till now. I filled him in on the other groups and the drama from the night before. He got a kick out of the drinking story. His plan was to hike down to Pieve di Cadore and jump in the lake. I was staying in Pieve di Cadore so we agreed to hike the last few hours together.

We head off down the path as Gareth continued to talk to me about anything and everything. I’m actually glad that I met Gareth for this last stretch. It was a boring hike down a boring path. I resided to the fact that my AV4 experience would soon be over. The only thing I was looking forward to was a hot shower and a good night sleep.

After a few hours we were greeted with a view of our destination; Pieve di Cadore (Above right photo). It seemed to be a quaint mountain village backdropped by a beautiful lake. Those were more frequent than you would think in Northern Italy, but it didn’t change the fact that this seemed to be a beautiful place to end the AV4. At this point Gareth started to limp. I felt bad for him, but I couldn’t help but smile on the inside. This was a person that had a very high opinion of himself. He was never tired. All the days were “easy” for him. It was nice to see him succumb to the wear and tear that a multi-day hike in the Dolomites did to a lot of people. It has happened to me in the past. I definitely limped to the finish line when I speed hiked the AV1. Today, I was still whole. No injuries to speak of. I took some solace in that. I was proud of myself and my body for holding up. Gareth was a good 12 years younger than me.

When we got to the village I said my goodbyes to Gareth and I walked to my hotel. While I was sad that the hike was officially over, I was eager to take a hot shower and lie down in a real bed. I had done it. I had completed the AV4. I thoroughly enjoyed this trek. Was it my favorite Alta Via route? I don’t think it was, but I will say it that the via ferrata sections made it memorable. I think Day 4 will go down as my favorite day of hiking in the Dolomites and that is saying a lot. In years past when I completed an Alta Via trek, I would tell myself that I was done. That I got it out of my system. I didn’t have this feeling upon completing the AV4. Honestly, I didn’t want to leave. I was already plotting my next trip. The AV3? The AV5? The AV6? I had a lot to think about, but one thing I knew for certain was that I would be back. This was my favorite place on earth and I see no reason not to go back to a place like that.

-MikeHikesTheAlps